| Scientific Name | Correlophus ciliatus |
| Common Name | Crested Gecko / Eyelash Gecko |
| Origins | New Caledonia |
| Behaviour | Crepuscular (most active at dawn and dusk) |
| Ease of Care | Beginner |
| Lifespan | 15 – 20+ years |
Detailed Care Guides
Looking for more in-depth guidance? We’ve put together dedicated subtopic pages covering every aspect of crested gecko care:
- Crested Gecko Setup & Enclosure — tank size, enclosure types, substrate and décor
- Crested Gecko Diet — CGD brands, live feeders and supplements
- Crested Gecko Temperature & Humidity — ideal ranges, misting routines and seasonal variation
- Crested Gecko Lighting — UVB guidance and day/night cycles
- Crested Gecko Handling — taming tips, stress signals and safe handling
- Crested Gecko Feeding Schedule — how often to feed by age group
About Crested Geckos
Crested Geckos (Correlophus ciliatus) were first described in 1866, then thought to be extinct until their rediscovery in 1994. They are now one of the most popular pet reptiles in the world — and for good reason. Easy to care for, calm in temperament, and remaining a manageable size at approximately 15–20cm in total length, they make an excellent first reptile for keepers of all ages.
Their wide range of colours, patterns, and morphs makes them endlessly interesting to collect and breed. Crested geckos are best kept alone — cohabiting can lead to fighting, stress, and competition for food. In the wild, crested geckos may drop their tails as a defence mechanism. Unlike many other lizards, crested gecko tails do not regenerate — the wound heals into a small, neat stump. Keeping your gecko separately from others greatly reduces the risk of tail loss.
Enclosure
Crested geckos are arboreal and require a tall, vertically oriented terrarium. The minimum recommended size for an adult is 45x45x60cm. Glass terrariums with front-opening doors and mesh ventilation are ideal, as they allow good airflow while retaining the humidity these geckos require. Juveniles and hatchlings should be started in smaller enclosures to make monitoring feeding and growth easier.
Decor
A well-decorated enclosure is not just aesthetically pleasing — it is essential for your gecko's wellbeing. Crested geckos need places to climb, hide, and feel secure. Artificial or live plants, cork bark tubes, vines, and branches all serve this purpose well. Cork bark is particularly useful as it doubles as a hide and its rough texture helps during shedding. Bioactive setups work very well for crested geckos and can help maintain consistent humidity levels.
Lighting
Crested geckos are crepuscular but can benefit from low-level UVB lighting. They fall within Ferguson Zone 1, meaning they require a UVI of 0–0.7 (with a maximum of 0.6–1.4 in any basking zone). A 2.4% UVB bulb placed on the mesh top of the terrarium will provide an appropriate UV gradient within the enclosure.
Temperature & Humidity
Crested geckos thrive at ambient temperatures of 20°C – 24°C and do not typically require additional heating in UK homes. If a basking spot is provided, it should not exceed 25°C – 26°C. Night temperatures should not drop below 18°C.
Humidity should be maintained at around 60–80%. Mist the enclosure once or twice daily — once in cooler months, twice in warmer months. Always allow the enclosure to partially dry out between mistings to prevent bacterial growth. A hygrometer is recommended to monitor humidity accurately.
→ Full Temperature & Humidity Guide
Feeding
Crested geckos eat a combination of fruit-based MRP (meal replacement powder) diets and live insects.
MRP Diets: Mix the powder with water to a smooth consistency and serve in a feeding cup or ledge. Replace every 24–48 hours. MRP diets from brands such as Pangea, Repashy, and Gecko Nutrition are nutritionally complete and can be used as the sole diet — no live insects are required as a staple.
Live Insects: Crested geckos can also be offered gut-loaded live insects as a supplement. Suitable feeder insects include crickets, calci-worms, locusts, waxworms, silkworms, and roaches. Always feed insects no larger than the gap between your gecko's eyes. All live food should be dusted with a quality calcium and vitamin D3 supplement before feeding.
Water: Crested geckos will often drink water droplets from leaves after misting. A small water bowl should also be provided at all times to ensure constant access to fresh water.
→ Full Diet Guide | Feeding Schedule
Handling
When introducing your crested gecko to its new home, leave it undisturbed for 3–4 weeks to settle in and begin feeding confidently. Hatchlings can be flighty at first but generally calm down with regular, gentle handling as they mature. Keep handling sessions short initially and increase gradually. Avoid handling in the days immediately after feeding or during shedding.
Health & Common Issues
- Stuck Shed: Usually caused by insufficient humidity. Address promptly by increasing misting frequency and providing a humid hide.
- Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Caused by calcium or vitamin D3 deficiency. Symptoms include jaw deformities, limb weakness, and muscle tremors. Prevented by correct supplementation and appropriate UVB lighting.
- Egg Binding (Dystocia): Can occur in females with low calcium or fat reserves. If you suspect your gecko is struggling to pass eggs, contact a reptile vet immediately.
- Bacterial & Fungal Infections: Usually a result of poor husbandry or an unclean enclosure. If you notice unusual spots, discolouration, or lethargy, seek veterinary advice promptly.
- Impaction: Uncommon but possible, particularly in small juveniles kept on loose substrate such as coconut fibre. Monitor young geckos closely.
Important: This guide is for general husbandry information and isn’t a substitute for veterinary advice. If your gecko is unwell, contact a qualified reptile/exotics veterinarian.
Salmonella Notice: Like all reptiles, crested geckos can carry Salmonella. Always wash hands thoroughly before and after handling your gecko or cleaning their enclosure.
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