Eurydactylodes – Gecko Care Sheet

Scientific Name Eurydactylodes spp.
Common Name Chameleon Gecko
Origins New Caledonia (Endemic)
Adult Size 5 – 10cm
Behaviour Diurnal (active during the day)
Ease of Care Intermediate
Lifespan 10 – 15+ years

Detailed Care Guides

Looking for more in-depth guidance? We’ve put together dedicated subtopic pages covering every aspect of Eurydactylodes care:

About Eurydactylodes

Eurydactylodes are a small genus of geckos endemic to New Caledonia, comprising four known species: E. agricolae, E. vieillardi, E. occidentalis, and E. symmetricus. Commonly known as Chameleon Geckos, they are one of the few gecko species that are truly diurnal — active during the day — making them particularly rewarding to observe in a naturalistic setup.

Despite their small size of just 5–10cm, they have calm temperaments and can be handled once settled. Their colouration includes shades of green with the ability to display orange and yellow tones, making them a visually striking and unique addition to any collection.

Hatchlings and sub-adults are best kept alone. Once mature, they can be housed in pairs or in a group of one male to two females. As with all geckos, cohabiting carries a risk of fighting and competition for food, so monitor group setups carefully.

Enclosure

Eurydactylodes are arboreal and require a tall, vertically oriented terrarium. A minimum of 30x30x45cm for a single adult, with taller being always better. Dense planting, fine cork bark, and thin branches are essential. Bioactive setups are highly recommended.

→ Full Enclosure Setup Guide

Lighting

Eurydactylodes are diurnal and benefit from low-level UVB lighting. They fall within Ferguson Zone 1, requiring a UVI of 0.0–0.7. A 2.0% UVB T5 or T8 tube provides an appropriate UV gradient. A consistent 10–14 hour day/night cycle is important for natural behaviour and breeding.

→ Full Lighting Guide

Temperature & Humidity

Eurydactylodes thrive at ambient temperatures of 18–23°C and are highly heat-sensitive — do not exceed 25–26°C. Most UK homes are well suited to Eurys for much of the year. Maintain humidity at 60–70% during the day, rising to 80–90% after evening misting. Always allow the enclosure to partially dry between mistings.

→ Full Temperature & Humidity Guide

Feeding

Eurydactylodes eat a combination of fruit-based CGD and appropriately sized live insects. Suitable feeders include fruit flies (Drosophila), micro crickets, small crickets and small BSFL. All live food should be dusted with calcium and D3 before feeding. CGD from brands such as Pangea, Repashy, and Gecko Nutrition forms the nutritional base.

→ Full Diet Guide | Feeding Schedule

Handling

Eurydactylodes are best considered a display species first. They can become tolerant of gentle handling with patience, but are fast and delicate. Allow 3–4 weeks settling time before any handling attempts. Note that unlike crested or gargoyle geckos, Eurydactylodes tails do not regenerate if lost — always handle calmly and avoid any restraint.

→ Full Handling Guide

Health & Common Issues

  • Stuck Shed: Usually caused by insufficient humidity. Address promptly by increasing misting and providing a humid hide.
  • Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD): Caused by calcium or D3 deficiency. Prevented by correct supplementation and appropriate UVB lighting.
  • Egg Binding (Dystocia): Can occur in females with low calcium or fat reserves. Contact a reptile vet immediately if suspected.
  • Bacterial & Fungal Infections: Usually a result of poor husbandry. Seek veterinary advice if you notice unusual spots, discolouration, or lethargy.
  • Impaction: Uncommon but possible in small juveniles on loose substrate. Monitor young geckos closely.

Important: This guide is for general husbandry information and isn’t a substitute for veterinary advice. If your gecko is unwell, contact a qualified reptile/exotics veterinarian.

Salmonella Notice: Like all reptiles, Eurydactylodes can carry Salmonella. Always wash hands thoroughly before and after handling or cleaning their enclosure.

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